Basque restaurants, particularly the ones attached to Basque boarding houses in San Francisco in the mid-20th Century played a big role in keeping body and soul together in my salad days of the early 1960's. The Basque Hotel Restaurant at 15 Romolo Place (there's a hipster bar there now) was my favorite. It was one of the later vintage Basque hotels, but actually functioned as a boarding house for sojourning Basques and, at least in its early years, adhered to a very traditional French Basque dinner service. You'd walk in before its single 6:30 seating and sit at a long communal table. At 6:30 sharp food would start coming, and you'd start eating. They would start with soup, followed by two entrees (which varied by day of the week), passed down the table on huge platters. Entrees might include clams, lamb chops, coq au vin, even sweetbreads.There were invariably mountains of French fries, the best I'd ever had. Sourdough bread (probably from Larraburu Bakery, which existed until the late '70s despite the erroneous info in the chart below), served without butter. Salad would be served last, European style. There was also unlimited quantities of vin ordinaire, and at the end of the meal strong coffee would be served, poured into the same tumbler you drank the wine from. I've never been a dessert guy, but there may have been pie or ice cream, too. At the end of the meal one would walk to the back or the room, pay at the bar and exit. I don't recall the exact price, but it was a splurge, at least double the $1.00 I would pay for a full American-style dinner at Jackson Cafe or Sun Tai Sam Yuen on Jackson street.
Not long into my tenure some traditions yielded to practical considerations, such as the pay-on-exit (which required a detour which was too easily avoided) and, eventually, the unlimited free wine. Prices rose faster than the cost of living as well, but it was still an affordable feast and a great social outing in the '80s when the above photo was taken (that's yours truly with the cig). .
I found the chart below on docstock.com. It's presented as is, though there are some errors and out-of-date information in it (Iluna Basque, for one thing, has closed).
Basque Hotels and Restaurants
In The San Francisco Bay Area
Hotel du Midi
|
1950’s & 1960’s
|
|
Powell and Broadway,
|
||
1
|
Marianne Ospital and Frank Monaut
|
|
2
|
Frank Monaut and Katrine Oillarburu
|
|
3
|
Jose Mari Etchemendy 1960’s
|
|
4
|
Felix & Begoña Bilbao 1964-1974
|
|
Hotel de España
|
1950’s
|
|
781 Broadway,
|
||
1
|
Katixa & Juanes Bordalampé and Maria and Fermin Uharte
|
|
2
|
Marie and Louis
Elu (proprietors)
|
|
Pyrénées Hotel
|
Before 1958
|
|
Pacific between Powell & Stockton???,
|
||
1
|
Janamarie and Martial Gonzalez
|
|
Pyrénées Hotel
|
After 1958
|
|
517 Broadway,
|
||
1
|
Amélie and Jean Sorhondo
|
|
Obrero Hotel
|
1950’s to 1970’s
|
|
1208
|
||
1
|
Mr. and Mrs. Idiart (Juan and Nieves
??? p95 Home away from Home) 1950’s
|
|
2
|
Mrs. Emile Ornague
|
|
3
|
Katrine and Pierre Goyhenetche
|
|
4
|
Mayie and Arnaud Mendisco
|
|
Hotel de France
|
1950’s to 1970’s
|
|
780 Broadway,
|
||
1
|
Jean Camino & Arnaud Etcheto (1950’s)
|
|
2
|
Juanita and Jean Etchevers and Claude and Claudine
Berhouet (1960’s & 1970’s)
|
|
3
|
Annie and
Pierre “Titou” Palomes (1970’s)
|
|
Hotel des Alpes &
Restaurant
|
20th century
|
|
732 Broadway,
|
||
1
|
Ambrosio Yriondo 1907
|
|
2
|
Mrs. And Jean Cazahous “Xubero” (proprietors 1930’s)
|
|
3
|
Mayie and Marcel Chaparteguy (1950’s)
|
|
4
|
Katixa and Juanes Bordalampe and Ganix Iriartborde
(1956-1965)
|
|
5
|
Ganix and Anna Iriartborde (1962-1975)
|
|
6
|
Helene and Ciriaco Iturri (1975)
|
|
7
|
Augustin Oroz and Basilio Arraiz
|
|
The Basque Hotel
|
1960’s to 1990’s
|
|
1
|
Martha and Pierre Bigue (1960’s)
|
|
2
|
Madeleine and Joseph Gestas
|
|
3
|
Anna and Sauveur Anchartechahar
|
|
4
|
Antoinette and Francisco Oroz
|
|
5
|
Jean Emile Idiart
|
|
La Cancha
|
20th century
|
|
Pacific between
|
||
1
|
Jose & Expectacion Elizalde
|
|
2
|
Jeronimo “Antón” Meabe
|
|
3
|
Saparart
|
|
Cosmopolitan Hotel
|
1960’s 1970’s
|
|
700
Block of Broadway???, San
Francisco, CA 94133
|
||
1
|
||
2
|
||
3
|
||
Le Chalet Basque Restaurant
|
1960’s to present
|
|
1
|
Eugenie &
Raymond Coscarat
|
|
2
|
Antoinette and
Francisco Oroz
|
|
3
|
Roger Minhondo
|
|
Tricolor Restaurant
|
1960’s to present
|
|
Geary Blvd,
|
||
1
|
Jeanne Marie
and Gratien Mocho
|
|
Fleur de France Restaurant
|
166-1972
|
|
Geary Blvd,
|
||
1
|
Jeanne Marie
Mocho
|
|
Croisette Restaurant
|
||
1
|
Annie Mocho
Newman
|
|
Fringale Restaurant
|
||
1
|
Jean-Baptiste
Lorda & Gerald Hirigoyen
|
|
Piperade Restaurant
|
2002 to present
|
|
1
|
Gerald and
Cameron Hirigoyen
|
|
Bocadillos Restaurant
|
2004 to present
|
|
1
|
Gerald and
Cameron Hirigoyen
|
|
Cote Sud Restaurant
|
||
1
|
Raymond
Arbelbide
|
|
Iluna Basque Restaurant
|
2003 to present
|
|
1
|
Mattin Noblia
|
|
Guernica Restaurant
|
1970’s - 2006
|
|
2009 Bridgeway,
|
||
1
|
Roger Minhondo
|
|
2
|
Gary Jones
(2002-2006)
|
|
Chez Léon Restaurant
|
1970’s
|
|
1
|
Peyo and Jean
Marie Lagourgue
|
|
Larraburu Bakery
|
1896-1945
|
|
Royal Bakery
|
1960’s to 1987
|
|
1
|
Dominique
Jambon and Pierre Saldubehere
|
|
I remember the Basque Hotel in the early 1970's, just as you describe it -- very clear memories of the french fries and the single tumbler for water, wine, and coffee. I'd guess the price was about $5 then. My favorite entree was oxtail stew.
ReplyDeleteDon't forget Elu's Spanish Basque restaurant at Broadway and Stockton that lasted until the late 70's.....I loved their food more than my own family restaurant (Des Alpes)!!
ReplyDeleteElu's Basque Restaurant closed in the early 80's
DeleteI have an old menu here from the Hotel du Midi. I was just checking to see if it is still in existence as I recall experiences there from late 60's and early 70's. Here's menu for Wednesday, for example: split pea soup, wine, lentils, beef stew, salad, pork chops, coffee, fresh fruit. Family-style and it was such a bargain. But if you wanted an extra pint (pint, mind you) it costs 50 cents!! Ah, the good old days!
ReplyDeletemy family ( the Mendisco family) was the last Basque family to run the Obrero hotel. I will never forget the fun times, and lessons in family values, hard work, and pride in your culture that those years instilled upon me
ReplyDeleteI ate once at the Basque Hotel in the '90s. Must have been the best value in all SF! Still remember the oxtail stew...
ReplyDeleteMy favorite was Des Alpes. My late husband and I used to go there regularly and noticed it was very popular with Chinese diners.
ReplyDeleteA bunch of my co-workers and I went to Des Alpes one July 25th, without reservations, and realized - oh, no! It was closed. I should have known. It was the feast day of Santiago Apostol y Martir, patron of Spain.